Dahlia Dig, Divide & Store Tools - Updated 2025

Dahlia Dig, Divide & Store Tools - Updated 2025

The last couple of years I've used the saran wrap method for dahlia tuber storage, and it suited me well (see this article with pictures). It was a LOT of work, and I continue to recommend this process for home gardeners who have a cool place to keep their tubers. But I've grown a bit larger and the storage location I was using fluctuated in temperature too much, so I built a temperature controlled shed to take on this job, and I'll be switching to keeping the dahlias in plastic tubs with vermiculate.

The rest of this post is about the dividing process and the tools I use:

Dig Process:

  1. Cut the dahlias down and leave about 6"-8" of stalk so you can handle them. I make sure the tag is correct while I'm cutting them (yet again, one last check).
  2. You can leave them in the ground for 1-2 weeks hoping the eyes become more visible so it's easier to divide.
  3. Dig them up using a pitchfork, start 18" away from the stalk digging deep underneath to try and pry them free and avoid piercing the tubers - do this on multiple sides. Gently lift them and try not to break any necks (some will always break, but the gentler you are the more tubers you can keep.
  4. If you're planning on dividing soon - wash them - I use this Dramm Water Wand so I'm further away from the wet and can choose different spray settings. Otherwise, leave the dirt on the clumps and move on to storage.
  5. Place the washed clumps in a dry location, I use my greenhouse, and let them dry out a bit, I usually leave them overnight. The next day I do the dividing. (Note: Don't put them directly on concrete, this will dry them out too quickly and cause shriveling, nor put them in direct sun).


Dividing:

I've updated my tools a bit in this section:

  1. Using disinfected scissors. I use a combo of 70% isopropyl alcohol solution to clean off the tools and a lab sterilizer with 3 garden scissors that I rotate through. Heat kills viruses.
  2. I cut off all the root tails hanging off the ends. It makes it easier to look at and divide.
  3. Depending on the size of the tuber clump either cut it in half with an oscillating tool (straight down the trimmed stalk) or start in with the scissors (Note1: These scissors are different than garden snips - stronger and more leverage. Note2: I wipe the blade of the oscillating tool with alcohol to disinfect - but it doesn't really touch the snipped ends of the dahlia tuber.)
  4. Cut above the neck trying to have at least 1 eye visible on each tuber.
  5. I leave the cut tubers in 1020 trays in the greenhouse for another 24 hours to cure. When they are dry on the outside (ex. you could write on them with a sharpie) you move on to the storage method of your choice.


Storage:

The Saran wrap method is great for those with limited space to store tubers, and have a wine fridge or other indoor area that stays consistently 40 degrees. See this article for those instructions.

I'm doing the vermiculite method this year:

  1. Using plastic shoeboxes (I use the Sterlite Storage Bins with Lids you can buy in bulk) fill the bottom with vermiculite and lay the tubers in a layer, not touching, then add more vermiculite on top and repeat.
  2. I'm using fine vermiculite this year, and I hope I don't regret it - It does keep the moisture in, and if there's too much, they could rot... but I used it last year when waking them up and it did just fine.
  3. I make sure and label each bin with the variety using painter's tape.
  4. These will go on racks inside my new temperature controlled shed. Using an infrared heater with a thermostat to keep it between 38-45 degrees in there. I will also have a Govee thermometer in the shed to alert me if the temperature goes out of range.

 

Well that's the plan! I hope your dig and storage are successful this year!

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