Dahlias - Dig, Divide, Store
Taking care of dahlia tubers over the winter can vary depending on where you live and your climate conditions. Here in the Pacific Northwest, we experience cool and especially wet weather during this time of year, which gives me some flexibility in the timing of my steps. However, if you're in a colder or warmer climate, your timing might need to be adjusted considerably. Those with climate-controlled storage areas will also have more options.
There are other ways to do this, but here’s one process:
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1. Dig up the dahlias Using a pitchfork, carefully lift the dahlias. Start further out than you think necessary to avoid damaging the tubers. Gradually move closer and pry them up gently. It’s common to accidentally “stab” a few tubers, but don't worry. You can often save them by cutting them in half and retaining the top end. 2. Clean Ensure each dahlia clump has an ID tag to keep track of your varieties. Gently brush off any excess dirt and move the clumps to a wash station. At the wash station (or on your lawn), use a forceful stream of water to remove the remaining dirt. I use the Dramm 9-way water wands for this task. |
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3. Dry Place the washed clumps in trays and allow them to dry off in the greenhouse for 24 hours.
4. Divide the clumps After drying, take each clump one at a time and cut off all the root ends to see how to divide the tubers more clearly. Cut off the top stem about an inch from where the tubers connect. Look for the eyes on the crown where the tuber connects to the stem. Using very sharp scissors (I use these ones with long handles for leverage), cut underneath the crown and sometimes into part of the stem to remove each tuber. Sometimes the clump is so big - then I use an oscillating tool to cut straight down the top to divide the clump in half for better access to the tubers. I use a corded one, so I don't have to mess with batteries. Make sure each divided tuber has at least one eye. In between dividing dahlia clumps, clean off your pruners - I rotate 3 of them and use a combo of isopropyl alcohol and a lab tool sterilizer. |
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5. Treat with Cinnamon: Dip each tuber in cinnamon, either the whole thing or just the cut ends. Cinnamon acts as an antibacterial agent and helps prevent the tubers from rotting (although some people will say this is a wives tale - it smells good so I use it anyway). Lay the treated tubers in a tray with the ID tag, being careful as they can roll around and get mixed up. Let them dry for 24-48 hours to allow the cut wounds to heal over. 6. Wrap & Label: Before wrapping, label the box that will hold the next batch of tubers with the name and count of tubers, e.g., “(6) BQ Gale.” Wrap each tuber in plastic wrap, starting with one and covering it fully, then adding another and fully wrapping it, and so on. Depending on the size, you can usually fit 3-5 tubers in a bunch. Make a label of the variety name and count in the bunch using painter’s tape and secure it on the saran-wrapped bunch. |
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7. Store Properly: Store the boxes of wrapped tubers in a location that stays about 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I use a shed outside and keep a Govee thermostat that alerts me if it gets too cold. If the temperature drops below 34 degrees, I move the boxes of tubers to my attached garage to keep them from freezing and then move them back out when the weather warms above freezing. Using this process, I lose only a handful of tubers to rot. I hope this helps you! |